After returning from Alaska and Canada I headed to Idaho to wait for yet another appointment to get the van repaired to replace manifolds and coolant lines that are leaking up to five cups of coolant a day. I've got about two weeks. This will be a good opportunity to convalesce. I used the Eastport U.S. Border entrance. There were about ten cars in line so totally unlike the Porthill border that never has a line!
It was Thursday so I headed first for Brush Lake Campground and it was full. I checked Smith Lake Campground it was full. After a long day of driving and washing the van, I was exhausted but I drove the extra thirty minutes to Sandpoint to stay at the RV parking near the Schweitzer ski resort. I was afraid it, too, would be filled, but no one was there! For a moment I wondered if they closed the place down, but the next day an RV showed and then another. I love this place. Yeah, it doesn't have a river, creek or lake, but no mosquitoes either! It also has an internet option if you have a personal hot spot! This is luxury! This time I didn't encounter any bears! I spent the next few days in Sandpoint cleaning the van inside and out, using the internet, getting groceries, reading, and just relaxing. I also checked with the Pomeray post office about general delivery and they offer it with smiles!
After two days of being in Sandpoint, I drove by a sign for a Renaissance Faire! For such a small town, it was huge with lines of cars trying to find parking and filled with costumed people. Many had pointy ears and tails! I watched the bellydancers in honor of a friend of mine who used to bellydance at Ren Faires as I think she'd be disappointed if I didn't. As I walked around looking at booths and watching entertainment and costumed people, I had tears in my eyes...I miss this life. But after two hours I was reminded why I don't go to these events. The misery isn't worth it as I suffered from a raging migraine from the essential oils, incense, and scented candles. I just can't do an overload of humanity!
I drove south to Grangeville and Hell's Canyon. The further south I got, the more agriculture, quilted fields of various colors stretching for miles and every little town had a granary.
I stopped above Lewiston to check out the scenic view and historical site. Idaho has a lot of historical sites featured along Highway 95. The aerial view of the city was stunning, but there is the Lewiston Highway which was a construction marvel in the early 1900s. From this high it looks like a toy car track! (It's hard to see it but it's in the middle ground of the photo below.) I wondered what the crosses (in the foreground) represented? People who died on the highway? People who threw themselves off the scenic viewpoint? Or people who just wanted to be buried up there? I don't know. There were about five of them with no explanation anywhere.
I continued to Grangeville. Sweet little town with a great main street featuring shops of all kinds. A lot of the buildings were vacant. I drove about ten miles to the Fish Creek Trailhead and Snowmobile Parking Lot. I had originally searched for a national forestry campground hoping it was free, but it was $12 a night. This trailhead/parking lot is also in the national forest so should be fine to park overnight. There were no "no overnight parking/camping" signs. It was nice and quiet and in the evening I hiked the Fish Creek Trail which was flat and easy. Internet was useless. The road was paved all the way with a scenic view of the town:
My sinuses had cleared up about a month ago after months of congestion and pain, but perhaps due to the faire or all this agriculture, I am back to suffering and struggling to breathe. Damn.
I drove all the way down Highway 95 which runs parallel to Hell's Canyon. These canyons are less green, more rock but very interesting, with amazing valleys. I've seen photos of Hell's Canyon, but finally someone told me the only access was purchasing a motor boat tour. I don't want to be confined on an enclosed boat with a bunch of stinkers. No thanks. I drove to south of Riggins then decided to find a place to stay. Most of the Wildlife and Fishing access areas are free for camping and there are many along Highway 95.
I stayed at Twin Bridges Fishing Access near White Bird right next to the Snake River. After looking at nearly all of them, I thought this one was the best with the most shade. It's up in the 90s today so too hot for my liking. OH! The water is glorious! Cool and clean with a little white sandy beach of my very own! Well, until an RV with Nevada plates became my neighbor, but I like nice neighbors. It makes me feel safe.
I went swimming six times in the first 24 hours, mostly because it's damn hot out and the van is like a metal oven! When I finally went to bed, I slept with a frozen water bottle! I can't tell you how badly I want to eat ice cream non-stop! Bonus: there is internet!!
The second day dipping into this wonderful river almost made the heat bearable, but then I encountered another problem...a mansplaining, disrespectful, beer-guzzling, abusive egomaniac. I made the mistake of giving him just enough attention to make him think I would be his new best friend. He's a local who brings his dog down to the river to swim every night. The Nevada RV guy told me about him, but did not indicate he might be a problems...or intolerable. It seems he chats up someone every night and it was my turn. He starts by complaining about the people who camp at this location and threatened to bring his RV down just to park it so others can't camp. What an asshole. I kept thinking,
Does he realize he's insulting me? Then he proceeded to teach me what it's like to live in a van although he has never lived in a van and he has no desire to do so (another insult). Any subject we start to discuss, he made sure I knew he was the expert. If I volunteer information, especially information he didn't like, he would demand loudly to know my "facts" as if I'm being quizzed in a junior high classroom. He seemed to enjoy proving me wrong and his attitude would become hostile and his voice louder. Typical bully behavior to control and manipulate others. He complained incessantly about anyone and everyone. It seems he hates a lot of people...especially people who camp anywhere in this area. I was a bit cautious with him so I avoided challenging him. He was a big guy and he bragged about his gun collection. He was already angry at everyone so I didn't want to incite more of his temper. Eventually he left, but all night I was afraid he'd come back in the dark. Although my mistake was being friendly, I handled it well. Problem is I ruminated about what I could have, should have, would have said all day the next day! This helped me decide when to leave and immediately was not soon enough. There was also a camper about fifty feet away from me, but every time he lit up a cigarette, the wind blew the stink into my van. I moved to the far end of the campground for the night and left bright and early the next morning. Great thing about living in a van - you can leave anytime. Bad neighbors don't last long!
The next morning I drove through White Bird, a cute little town tucked away in a canyon populated with a variety of old buildings. If it didn't have 81 people as advertised, it would be a really cool ghost town.
The White Bird Battlefield was just down the country road up the valley. This is where in history the Nez Perce Indians fought (and won) against the U.S. Cavalry. I really wanted to hike the trail but there were "Venomous Snakes" signs posted everywhere. I figured in the cool of the morning, they'd be out on their morning slither. Hiking here didn't seem to be a good idea!
Next I stopped at Cottonwood to see the St. Gertrude Monastery. It's unbelievable someone built this way out in the middle of nowhere two miles from the nearest tiny town. A local told me it was used as a Catholic school for a long time. Now it's a museum although the nuns still live there.
I backtracked to Lewiston (with too much industrial stink in the air. UGH!) and Clarkston which is over the border in Washington. Clarkston has a Walmart, but they didn't have water machines! Then I headed east on Highway 12 to Missoula through the Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forest. The highway ran along side the Clearwater River. So gorgeous and clean!
Arrived in Missoula for lunch at Five on Black. I was here barely a month ago and the landscape has turned from all green to all brown! After lunch I headed west on Highway 200 to Sandpoint. I considered stopping and camping at any number of spots, but the temperatures were up to 100 degrees on the way. If I stopped too early, the van would get too hot so drive all day it is! I'm really not sure how I'm going to survive the summer. Far beyond Missoula the landscape turned back to green with rolling hills covered in pine trees.
I finally did stop at the Clark Ford Drift Yard Dispersal Campground about thirty minutes east of Sandpoint. My plan was to camp at Sandpoint's Walmart, but it's so hot I'd have to leave my doors and windows open and I wouldn't be comfortable doing that in a city. The MOSQUITOES were tormenting me all night. I'm not surprised. This campground is on a skinny peninsula with one side lake and the other two sides swamp.
The next morning I headed to Sandpoint to pick up my STARLINK! Whoo hoo!! The post office at Ponderay has a wonderful general delivery policy and the woman there was very friendly and welcoming. After getting groceries at the excellent Winter Ridge Natural Foods, I headed to Libby, Montana, hoping and praying there was a spot available at the Dunn Creek Flats Campground. I stayed here over a month ago and did some river dipping in the ice cold water. I loved it here, possibly the best spot I've been too, except it doesn't have internet. Starlink satisfies that need!! I figured it would be a great way to spend the Fourth of July weekend away from cities and crowds. Thankfully there was a spot left!
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Big Blue and Little Blue (the tent) at
Dunn Creek Flats Campground outside Libby, MT.
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Wow! Internet finally! People I met in Alaska said it is a game changer especially if you are trying to work from your van. I have internet!!! Wow! I got the Mini and Roaming subscription. It was on sale for $100 off! It'll be too tempting to be online all the time. I only have 50GBs per month without incurring extra fees. We'll see. Everyone I talked to says they go over all the time. If I stop living in this van, I can always use Starlink as my internet provider where ever I go. OMG!!
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| Starlink looking for the Satellite! Whoo Hoo! |
This Fourth of July (2025) was the best I've had in 20 years! That's not an exaggeration. I relaxed in perfectly warm weather, reading nonfiction most of the day. That afternoon the clouds moved in. At dusk it started to rain. Even surrounded by two large families with children, there were zero fireworks. No bombs bursting in air. Totally quiet. This is such a change from living in a town where one heard fireworks one week before July 4th and up to three weeks after. I did find out later that fireworks are forbidden in these campsites. So strange the temperature dropped from 90 degrees to 55 degrees in record time. Again, zero noise except for the pitter patter of tiny raindrops...my kind of holiday! The rain was off and on the next day, but the weather report predicts from 77 to 84 degrees in the next day or two. Love it.
My third morning at the Libby campground at the crack of dawn, I went on my morning walk. As I was coming down the back stretch I saw what I thought was a little bird jumping under my van. I got closer and realized it was a PACK RAT trying to jump up into Big Blue's engine. I never ran so fast in my life! Because it was daylight, I had removed all the blinking lights and rat beepers, but I had not yet lowered the hood. Anytime I park near grass or bushes, I take anti-rat precautions just in case. This was the first time I had any indication there was a rat infestation, although my camping neighbors told me in previous years there has been a problem. I sprayed peppermint oil all over inside and outside the van. That night I worried the rats would get into my van even with all the blinking lights. I didn't sleep much! Time to leave!
Last time I was here I dipped in the river because it was too cold. I had planned to jump off the dock by the last day, but I never got the chance. I took my chance the night before I left and as I jumped I thought, This is not a good idea, but since I had already jumped I followed it with a, WHOOPS! TOO LATE! It was much warmer than a month ago, but still cold and I was not inspired to swim around for any length of time. But I did it!
The next morning I left back to Sandpoint, did grocery shopping, and headed to the Brush Lake Campground hoping since it was a Tuesday, there would be an empty space. I arrived just in time to snag my favorite spot with shade!
Now back to British Columbia...
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