How to Tile a Countertop

I'm writing this post for instructions on how to tile a countertop because I couldn't find much online with basic instructions. I am courageously remodeling the pantry and wanted to do something simple and less expensive for the small countertop. As you read this you'll probably thing she doesn't know what she's doing and you would be right!


Supplies:

Goggles, gloves, apron
Plastic to cover and protect area
Hammer
Screwdriver or paint scrapper
Wood piece for under front edge (optional)
Tape
Vacuum

Tiles
Ceramic Tile Acrylic Adhesive
Notched Spreader
Rags for clean up
Sponge or damp rag for adhesive clean up

Grout
Spatula
Grout Floater
Sponge
Buckets of Water
Dry Rag

Grout Sealer
Dry Rag


Step one: Figure out the plan.

In my kitchen pantry I have a small counter just under 10 square feet in size (5 feet x 1 1/2 feet with some edging). The original tiles were one inch square covering the total surface and facing edge in multiple colors of green with old, discolored grout. Who ever set those must have had a whole lot of patience!

Most stores had only the glossy white tiles available and sold per tile or per case. This would have saved me money, but then someone told me glossy scratches easy and with all the abuse a counter would get moving boxes across it or banging jars on it, matte would be more durable. I did want them to match the floor which is a matte white. My floor tiles are 12 x 12, but that size is too big for this little counter.

I didn't want to rent a tile cutter which was quite big, heavy and expensive, so I opted for 4 x 4 tiles. I ordered the minimum which was a case for $24.50. Initially the sales woman told me after doing the math there were 50 in a case. When the case arrived I realized there were 100 in a case.

I measured the space and realized unless I had very wide grout lines, I would need a smaller size tile somewhere in the design. I also tried to find small trim for the edge, but what was available was too wide. I considered letting the trim pieces overlap but with cupboards and drawers under this counter, I was afraid of snagging the edge and ripping off the tiles. I could have ordered a case of small size tiles or edging, but minimum case orders are costly when I only needed a small amount. I bought sheets of hexagon designs with little one inch squares so I could use the one inch squares.

The individual pieces come apart.

 

 

Using one inch squares is a little weird I know, but I figured if the old design can use them, why not? I was trying to keep the project simple, easy, and cheap.

 

Once I figured out the most efficient option and gathered the supplies, I was ready to dive in!

 



Step Two: Remove the old tiles.

 

First, cover all other surfaces and floors and wear gloves and goggles. I used a hammer and a metal paint scraper. I started with a screwdriver but the scraper was wider and remove more faster. This is messy work with glass-like chips, wood splinters, dust and dirt flying everywhere.

 

 

 

 

It's important to get as much grout, tile and glue off so the surface is smooth, clean and level.

 

 

After scraping, I used a electric sander but it didn't make much difference. I was told adhesive for tiles is like cement. Sanding doesn't affect it. I used a paint scraper to make it as smooth as possible.

 

I attached a piece of wood under the counter in the front to hold up those edge tiles.

 

 

 

I saw this on an online video, but I think this is only necessary for larger, heavier tiles. I added a piece of paint tape because I kept thinking if the adhesive sticks to the wood piece, when I remove this wood, half the tiles will be yanked off. I think the wood piece was more hassle than necessary. If you have big facing tiles you'd need it.

 



Step Three: Lay out the tiles and figure out the design.

 

I did this about five times! Trying to figure out how to space them seems like it would be easy, but I was worried about the adhesive. It is highly suggested to use spacers in between the tiles and you can buy a whole bag of 500. I didn't want this extra expense and with such a small, strangely shaped space, I didn't think they'd help. You can't be wasting time trying to figure out spacing and getting all the lines straight and the spacers inserted when the adhesive is drying. I think if I were to do a large space like a floor and in sections, using spacers would be an advantage. I decided to just eye it.

 

 

As you can see the counter is mostly 4 x 4 tiles with the little 1 x 1 tiles at the back to take up room and at the front for the edge. There are some 1 x 1 tiles at the side where the counter fits around some architecture. Not a great design, but it works. I was going to have to eye it so I practiced laying them out. Five times. I wanted to make sure before doing anything permanent with glue or grout.



 

 

Step Four: Stick 'em on.

 

I used a small container of Ceramic Tile Adhesive. The instructions say it will cover ten to fifteen square feet and since I had a little less than 10 square feet I hoped this would work. Directions say to spread it thin, but not too thin, then "score" it with a notched spreader or trowel.

 

 

I bought one of the smaller sized notched spreader tools for only 79 cents instead of a trowel since I was doing a small space. I used the flat edge to spread the adhesive on the surface. I was told to use the large jagged teeth, but I think it depends on the thickness of the adhesive and the size of the tiles. In hindsight I should have used the medium teeth for the four inch tiles and the small teeth for the one inch tiles.

 

It was difficult trying to figure out how thick to lay the adhesive. I knew I needed to use the whole container, so I used that as a guide, but it seemed too thin to me. I'm not sure how that container would have covered "up to 15 square feet". It barely covered less than 10.

 

Laying out the tiles was scary. You have to work fast, but still get them straight and spaced evenly. The 1 x 1 inch tiles were difficult to handle because the adhesive was sticky and slippery especially wearing plastic gloves. I worked up one side at the left then across the front so I could judge the 90 degree angles. I'm sure there are more professional ways to do this line laying plumb lines, but this was a small space so I figured I could eye it. Again, the 1 x 1 tiles were the problem. I set them out too far apart and ended up with left over tiles! So I adjusted some which hopefully isn't a huge faux pas in technique. More difficult to judge than I anticipated especially when one is nervous. The edge tiles didn't want to stick so much and they kept wanting to slide down slightly so in a way I was glad I had the wood piece attachment to support their positions until I could shove them securely into the adhesive. Once I got them all in place I twisted them into the adhesive tightly. I still don't think for smaller tiles one needs the wood piece.

 

Then I took a large piece of 2 x 4 board, set it on top of the tiles to make sure they were level with one another. Tapped lightly with a hammer. You are also supposed to use a level to make sure the whole surface is level. I wasn't going to buy a fancy level and if it showed that the surface was not level, what was I supposed to do? It didn't make sense for such a small surface.

 

 

 

Step Five: Clean up and finish.

 

With a damp cloth (or sponge), carefully clean off as much adhesive as possible before it dries on the tiles. If you don't get it all, don't worry. The great thing about ceramic is it's like glass. Any adhesive residue comes off easy with a flat edge exacto knife blade.

 

After an hour of letting it all sit I removed the wood piece. The edge tiles didn't slip off and were stuck securely.

 

Directions on the container say to wait 48 to 72 hours for drying time before adding grout. Don't mess with them until then.

 

Oddly enough, it doesn't smell. You would think adhesive would be deadly, but even when I had professional flooring people do my kitchen floors they didn't stink. I love ceramic tile!

 

THREE DAYS LATER...

 

I crossed my fingers and lightly touched the corners of the tiles to see if they were secure. They were! Even the little tiles on the facing edge. You can't imagine how relieved I was!!!

 

Step Six: Grout

 

I bought a small container of Pre-Mixed Grout which comes white only. If you need colored grout you'd need to mix it yourself. So glad I needed white! I like an easy project.

 

Wear a mask, gloves and apron. This step is messy!

 

I scooped it using a plastic paint scraper so I could use the sharp edge to get it into the corners. Then I spread it into the lines using a rubber Grout Floater tool. I was told the rubber ones are better than the latex. All the instructions I read said to spread it at a 90 degree angle...I wasn't quite sure what that meant. I figured that out while doing the actual spreading and trying to fill all the little lines completely - run the spreader against the lines not along the lines, so if the lines are vertical, spread horizontal across them that way the grout scrapes off the edge of the tool and compacts into the hole. That probably isn't any clearer! Well, do whatever you can to make sure the grout is packed into the lines and no air bubbles are left. Using the floater, remove as much excess grout off the tile tops as possible.

 

Because I opted not to use fancy edging, I needed to put grout between the two rows of tiles at the front edge and try to make it look as pretty as possible. I used my fingers and packed the grout in. This was SO MESSY with sandy-textured white mud dripping on the floor and down the plastic-covered walls. Once I got the grout packed in these small spaces, I carefully used the float to smooth it out and make it even praying those little tiles wouldn't pop off. I was told to make this edge diagonal rather than a sharp corner so it wouldn't chip off easily. I'm surprised it worked so well. I was worried about how the edge would end up looking since it's not a professionally-bought option. Not bad!

 

Close up of edge and one inch square facing tiles.

 

 

With a damp sponge and a bucket of water, I cleaned the excess grout off the tiles using diagonal wipes, rinsing the sponge often. This was really messy. I tried getting the extra grout off the walls and all I could do was smear it all over. I kept rinsing the sponge and wiping it off repeatedly! Eventually it looked even and clean.

 

Grout smells a little like paint, not as strong, but a distinct chemical smell.

 

Dump the bucket of grouty water somewhere outside far enough away from curious bunnies.

 

If a filmy haze is left, they say don't worry about it. According to the grout container instructions, it should be dry in about four hours. At that time use a dry, soft, cloth to remove the haze by "polishing" the tiles. If the haze still exists after 24 hours, it can be removed with Grout and Tile Cleaner. I didn't want to buy another toxic product so I used an exacto knife blade and scraped off any excess residue.

 

TWO DAYS LATER...

 

Step Seven: Sealer

 

This will seal the grout so it's stain-proof. Sealer can be bought in a plain bottle, squeeze bottle, or spray bottle. I got the squeeze bottle with the brush on the end. Apply it to the grout, wait 10 - 15 minutes, and wipe the excess off the tiles. I did this for my floors so I can confidently say I am experienced at the sealing step!

 

Done! Hooray!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When the whole pantry is finished, I'll post the process with more photos.