Wyoming: Rain, Clouds and a Blizzard!

My second morning after Yellowstone spit me out in Montana, I awoke to thick clouds and rain. Oh well. Rain is bound to happen in May! Unfortunately, I didn't think anything of it, checked the weather for my route, and continued east back to Wyoming through Livingston and Billings. Both Wyoming and South Dakota are showing warmer, drier weather. Livingston was a gorgeous little town with a wonderful health food store that included organic produce and an in-store bakery. Billings also had a health food store but mostly supplements with some packaged foods.

Back to the land of horses! As soon as I crossed the state line, the horses appeared in the next field. I arrived in Cody, Wyoming (finally!) to 30 degrees and snow. What? What about the 75 degree weather and sun I was promised a day ago? The locals kept saying, "You should have been here a day ago." Well, yeah! I dropped into the BLM office and the Chamber of Commerce, both very helpful. Checked out the Buffalo Bill Western Museum and planned to see it the next day. Then I found the BLM campground way out of town, up on a plateau, overlooking the gorgeous valley on three sides. Well, if I could see it. It was covered in low clouds, a windstorm rocked Big Blue, and freezing temperatures. I thought it best to get back into town and try the Walmart. Walmart manager was incredibly nice telling me Walmart camping is better than BLM outback as they have security cameras and are safer! Thanks! There were three RVs and one moving van already parked. I snuggled into my bed after securing the van and putting up all window covers.

At around midnight I awoke. Besides the wind beating the van, I had a strange foreboding...the Bluetti was down to 20% power! OMG! I should have been charging it as I drove through the clouds. No sun means no power! I panicked. At midnight during a storm I don't think well. I dug out my car adapter, also looked at the solar wiring. Panic. Suppose I detach the wrong wire? Nothing was working and I couldn't very well leave the van running all night or I might never awake. The Bluetti continued to dip in percentage. OMG. I was in a panic all night waiting for daybreak. It got down as low as 18% with a red warning light.

At daybreak with the ability to see better, I realized the car adapter was broken. I detached the refrigerator from the Bluetti, attached everything to the car battery via the cigarette lighters, and started driving. Forget the museum and Cody in general. I had to get the Bluetti's power up or it would implode (or something). I texted my incredibly road-savvy friend Susan. She called me and as usually gave me lots of patient advice. Keep driving. The longer the destination the better. I set Google Maps for eastern Wyoming.

On my route I stopped at Hyattville. Tiny little village out in the country. Quiet and lovely. The surrounding landscape was beautiful with rolling green grass.

I followed the suggestions of the BLM employee who may have had it out for me, but at the time seemed really nice. I took Highway 14...it climbed up, twisting and turning, with a drop off on one side while the snow blizzarded around me. I was terrified! The roads looked icy. The signs that said, "If the lights are flashing turn back." were not on, but I feared the next one might be flashing. Then what? Go all the way back? I came across one warning sign that said, "WARNING: FROST HEAVES." WTF is a frost heave? I persisted, cussing at the uphill climb, demanding aloud to know when the highway starts going down on the other side and this nightmare would be over. Every moose sign I saw I'd scream, "Where is the moose? If I must suffer this torment, I want to see moose!" I never saw moose. 

Finally at Buffalo, Wyoming that sported a gorgeous historic downtown, I arrived in the valley, it stopped snowing, and I stopped panicking. I continued on Interstate 90 - wonderful freeway, four lanes, well-maintained, free of semis, and, most importantly, free of snow and drop offs!

I was told at the Cody Chamber of Commerce to see the Devil's Tower. I turned off I-90 onto Highway 14 a little apprehensive, worried if the road would be closed, or at least snowing. Beautiful road, paved, and wide. Gorgeous green surroundings with rolling green hills, beautiful farms, and trees. In the distance I could see the Devil's Tower lording over the landscape. (It was still cloudy, but the clouds were high and no rain or snow!)

From what I've read it's molten lava. Scientists aren't sure how it was created. Maybe it was a volcano and the sides collapsed leaving the lava? It's quite majestic. It's in a National Monument park with free entrance if one has an America the Beautiful pass.

I asked about free camping and was given a map...LOTS of secret BLM land not on Campendium or in my BLM book. I drove toward Sundance and stayed up on Warren Peak. Again, paved roads all the way up the mountain. Wyoming sure knows how to do roads! My Bluetti was still low at 50% so I avoid using any electronics all night. I switched from battery to solar and although the clouds covered the sky, there was enough light to start charging at 395 watts! This was a great sign. I anticipated clear and warmer weather in my future! I was exhausted from such a stressful day. I went to bed early.

Sundance BLM Camping View

I see a sunrise! The town of Sundance is gorgeous, small, manicured lawns, beautiful with surrounding green valleys and forests. I went to the local cafe: Wild West Espresso for some internet and to prepare for my doctor's telehealth appointment.

Trapped in Yellowstone!

I left the Grand Teton National Park early, drove through Jackson to Idaho Falls then north to Yellowstone's western entrance. The southern entrance would have been more convenient, but it was closed for winter not scheduled for opening for another week. It was about four hours out of my way, but I've got time to see more of our great country. Highways 22 and 31 were gorgeous. Loved Swan Valley! Idaho Falls was very clean and pretty.

I was excited to see the famed Yellowstone National Park! After my experience at the many other national parks along the way, I was surprised there seemed to be hardly anyone here on the roads or in the line at the entrance. The park was gorgeous with beautiful rivers along the route. I saw hot springs and waterfalls.

And buffalo! Or rather bison, but they look like buffalo to me! The first herd was fun, they were walking (and shitting) all over the roads with not a care in the world for the vehicles.

After the fifteenth herd of often a hundred or more, it got old. The stopped traffic irritated me. The large dumps of buffalo doo-doo all over the roads and covering the fields were ghastly. The grass is eaten down to nothing. I wondered if the park culls the herds and sells the meat to restaurants? I decided I've seen enough buffalo to last me a lifetime until I came across a massive buffalo right on the side of the road...with a baby buffy!! It couldn't have been more than a day or two old! And blonde! Ooohhh!

Then I encountered the most obnoxious buffalo! He was in front of a car in front of me for the longest time, finally moved off the road so we start traveling again, and he does a little hop skip right in front of my van! With his butt facing me, he just stands there...on purpose, I'm sure. He looks back at me once like it's a game. Believe me when I say, I wanted to run him over, but I patiently waited. He slowly starts to walk to the side of the road and I drove around him.

Never saw any bears...darn.

The southern entrance is currently closed for winter for another week. I didn't want to wait. I meticulously researched the route, or so I thought. My plan was to go in the west, tour the northern routes that according to online were open, out the northeast entrance and on to Cody, Wyoming. It was destined to be a long day anyway with seven hours of driving and who knows how much time taken to look at sights, walk trails, and eat lunch. I was right on schedule all the way reaching the northeast entrance at around 4pm. It was suspiciously unmanned.

I get to the first town four miles east of Yellowstone called Cooke City. Strangely misleading, it is NOT a city but a cute little town. On the other side of the town...the highway through the mountain pass is CLOSED!! The sun is going down and I am nearly out of gas. I have no option other than to turn around and drive all the way back across the park and hopefully I can get out the northern entrance.  There is no internet so I can't confirm if that highway is also closed so I take my chances. It's not closed, however, with no internet, how do I find a place to stay??

Luckily, at the last campground in the Tetons, I met a woman who gifted me a BLM Campgrounds book! She had an extra one! Thank god! I found this spectacular campsite at Capella in Montana! I arrive and there is a sign that says "Fee Area". Hmmmm...this is supposed to be BLM land and free. I've noticed many of the campsites they are changing to fee-based camping. The posted sign in the campground says camping costs $15! Well, it didn't in my book! I see the camp host and ask if there are free campsites in the area. He says, "Why do you want to go to some place else when this one is free?" I tell him all the signs say it costs! He says that doesn't start until May 15th! I am so relieved. It's a beautiful place right next to the Yellowstone River.

WYOMING: Land of Warm Pine (Yum!)

Wyoming roads are wonderful! I love these little highways where I'm often the only one driving. The speed limit is 70mph and I'm tootling down the road admiring the scenery and watching for wildlife at 45-55mph. Why speed if you don't have to? 

Wyoming has a copious amounts of wildlife warning signs. My favorite is the electrical light show with flashers that exclaim, "DO NOT STOP AND LOOK AT BEARS!" I admit if this sign wasn't there and I saw a bear, I'd be stopping! I spoke to a ranger and she told me idiots stop in the middle of the highway usually just after a curve! Hard to believe people are that stupid, but I'm not surprised. I would at least have sense enough to park on the side rather than in the middle of the lane. Unfortunately, every time I'd see one of these signs I was convinced a bear was near so for the next hour I'd scan the horizon looking. This is a driving hazard, one of those "distractions" I'm trying to avoid. I've seen white-tailed deer, antelope and a lot of elk, but no moose or bear. Lots of horses, too! Every backyard has a horse!

My first stop was Rock Springs. Highway 191 between Flaming Gorge and Interstate 80 was GORGEOUS! The only reason for my Rock Springs visit was the so-called health food store I found online. I went to two different addresses...must be out of business. Very frustrating. I did see a Taco Time. I haven't seen a Taco Time in at least fifteen years. Oh how I used to love their burritos! My justification was I was out of food and these little towns don't have healthy options so what the hell? It would have been my first time eating gluten in ages so I resisted. For now.

I continued north on 191 which had many historic landmark pullouts designating the Oregon Trail route. Yep, wagon trains drove through here using geological landmarks to keep on the correct route. Amazing.

Along the way I stopped to see the ghost town South Pass City. In 1966 it became an historic landmark so it was well-preserved and maintained. Although the buildings were locked, one could see inside and they went to great effort to furnish and decorate each building with period objects. Loved the grocery store with all the old cans of food and fabric.

Lander was next on the route. Beautiful town with gorgeous old houses! My bank is also in Lander (all over Wyoming actually!) The Safeway had a scanty selection of organic or gluten-free, but mostly junk I shouldn't eat. No food: No stay.

On the way out of town I passed a Ford dealership and thought I'd attempt to see if they would disconnect my broken seat heater that comes on whenever and manages to set my butt on fire. Other dealerships refused and would only give me the cost of repairs. This involves removing the whole seat so it's quite spendy. Nope. Not doing that. After much discussion and warnings, they made me an appointment for the next morning. This means I'd have to stay overnight and Lander has free camping at their city park! Beautiful little park with a jogging trail that runs parallel to the creek. I parked right next to the creek. The bathrooms were, unfortunately, out of order. It was quiet and peaceful with only the babbling creek for company. I awoke to rain.

Ford disconnected my seat heater! When I asked how much worried they might charge me as much if not more than I've been quoted to have it fixed, they said, "No  charge!" WHAT??? Unbelievable! I feel so loyal to them I might have to come back for some maintenance in the future.

Lander should have also had a health food store, but it also was not at the address it should have been. The city park had internet so I could work and the Safeway in town had a small Starbucks. I considered staying a few days to get my project done, but I was out of food and for lack of food resources I decided to stick to my rule. I really must have good and healthy food to eat.

Next I headed over the pass and encountered three feet of snow on the sides of the highway. 

37 degrees!!

Hmmm...clearly my trip started too early. I was afraid of that. I should have stayed at the Grand Canyon for a few weeks but as usual, I didn't plan my food supplies well enough. I'm learning. I was also a little disappointed as I gaze upon the lovely landscape thinking how much more beautiful it would be if the trees had leaves. It's too early to be gallivanting around the country, but Tucson's heat wave is what inspired me to hit the road. Live and learn! Adventure is all about learning.

The Grand Tetons were magnificent, but clouds covered most of the scenery. I found the free campsite at Toppings Lake Dispersal off highway 26-89 just north of Jackson. Unfortunately the upper campsites, which had better views, were closed to protect them. In other words, covered in snow and driving on it would just create ruts in the road. The one lower campsite had space, but by morning it was full. Most importantly, it had internet and cell service so I could work!

The next day I headed to Jackson for food. Beautiful town! The downtown district was so gorgeous. Then I encountered the WORST Whole Foods in the western United States! Horrible customer service in every department, but especially the checker who stood there and watched me bag my own groceries and then decided to speed me along by throwing my purchases in the bag with no thought at all. Not sure why he was in such a rush. He had nothing to do when I approached him and no customers in line. What a pig.  

On the way back to the campsite I stopped at the National Museum of Wildlife Art. That was magnificent with such beautiful art from the 1800s. I was overwhelmed by the details. This is why I suck at art - I don't have the patience nor fortitude for such work.

HAPPY MAY DAY! I'm thrilled it's May and with it comes warmer weather. I found out today many of Yellowstone's roads are closed. It's still winter here! So I'll have to detour to Idaho to access the western entrance. Stay tuned!

Finally the next day no clouds!