On the Road Again! Arizona

February 28, 2026 I'm off again! After a winter of disappointing real estate searching, I decided it might be better to continue the van life journey and forget trying to be a "normal" person (whatever that might mean)! I was told by another van-life woman it takes two years to settle into van life. That gives me so much encouragement. 

So after six months in Tucson camping at my favorite free campsite, finishing my secret rock-lined path through the desert:

...finishing all van maintenance ($$$), finishing physical therapy to get this ankle working, after restructuring my virtual mailbox, and after spray painting my front license plate to match the van's roof (the old one was an Arizona flag that had faded to oblivion!) 

I WAS READY TO GO!! The temperatures in Tucson were climbing into the mid-90s and the rattlesnakes were waking up too early!

Maybe. I kept finding things I NEEDED to do, things I failed to do for the last six months! Or was I stalling? I got rid of more things from my van, stuff I did NOT need in a van: desktop computer, 30x22 monitor, computer speakers, webcam, tools, books, art, and clothes I never wear because they haven't fit me for twenty years!! Why do we do that?

But then I had an encounter that made me not hesitate to drive away. 

Early this morning in the dark at 4:00am I decided to do one more load of laundry since laundromats are not always easy to find on the road. I noticed there is a semi-truck idling in the parking lot. Weird. This made me nervous. I don't like being at laundromats in the dark with strange men. I once watched a true crime show that said it is suspected truck drivers are convenient serial killers. Jeez! But he wasn't in the laundromat so I think he was taking the opportunity to park overnight and sleep. I started to unpack my dirty sheets and supplies and on the second trip in I notice there is my pillowcase that I was missing the last time I was there two weeks ago sitting next to my pile of laundry. Hmmm...my first thought was maybe it got hidden in the sheets and yanking those sheets off my mattress revealed it?

On my next trip back to the van I noticed the pickup truck parked under the tree at the far edge of the dark parking lot. A man gets out with his supplies. I can see him out of the corner of my eye since I am always on alert in the dark, but don't acknowledge him.When he gets into the laundromat I recognize him from my last trip. His name was Jim and we spoke briefly and friendly during the last visit. 

He says, "That's your pillowcase. The last time you were here you left it in one of the washers. The next people found it, held it up, and asked if it belonged to anyone. I took it for you. You looked like you were missing something." He didn't know I always check the machines to make sure I got everything, but it must have been stuck to the top side or something. I did know I was missing it and hoped it would show up.

I replied, "Oh, thank you so much! I was wondering what happened to it!"

Then my instincts got the creepies. Has he been parking out in the parking lot every morning for the last two weeks waiting for me to reappear? I hadn't planned to do laundry until the last minute. He had no idea when I would be there again. Hmmm...my spidey senses flared.

Then he says, "I know where you are camped. It's very crowded there."

I said, "Yes, it is crowded. More so than last year."

OH GOD. Has been watching me? Did he go looking for me? Did he find me? I can't tell you how much that creeped me out! Am I just paranoid at 4 in the morning in the dark? I decided to trust my instincts. I sat in the van with the doors locked while I finished my load of sheets, and then left! I went back to the campsite,. I did not want to be there all of a sudden! I collapsed my tent and pack up. I was outta there and did not look back!

I headed northwest to look at Ash Fork. 

On the way I stopped in at Spooky Swirls, the gluten-free Halloween bakery in Chandler! It was quite by accident going through Chandler and I always wanted to see this year-round spooky-themed bakery. What a unique concept! I bought a slice of cheesecake!! It was gluten-freely delicious!

I drove north through Prescott and into Ash Fork. There are some tiny houses on land up there that have been listed for a long time. They are in my budget. I understand now. The town is ugly and run down. The landscape is desolate. Not sure this would be the place for me, but I might come back through and look again.

I continued through Kingman to a BLM site outside Chloride. So peaceful and quiet out in the middle of the desert! Very different from camping in Tucson with the constant noise of the highway. The weather is lower to mid 80s (Tucson is in the 90s now), cool at night. No one around.

Nearest van neighbor...can you even see him?

Just as I was sitting down to dinner, I had some visitors! COW CAMPING!

I feel a lot less stressed this time. This is a good thing! I did kill my phone and almost ran out of gas. I'm out of practice. 

The next morning was leisurely and relaxed. I drove to Dolan Springs - a town I heard has a lot of chemically sensitive people. It was UGLY! What is the attraction? Blah!

Then on to Nevada!!

Utah!

I finally made it out of Arizona! Utah has spectacular roads! Compared to the coolness of the Grand Canyon, southern Utah was hot. Around 80 degrees, windy and dusty.

First stop was Paria Ghost Town. It was supposed to have been rebuilt into a movie set for some famous western movies, but it was burnt down by some low life. The BLM rebuilt it again in a more accessible location and it, too, was burned to the ground probably by the same low life. I thought there would be something left. The ghost town was at the end of a dusty dirt 6 mile road, past the day use area, past the cemetery, and ending at the trailhead which was deep in sand. I walked another 2 miles, across a river (not a dried one either!), through bushes...I had no idea where I was going as the trail ended at the river. I finally found a couple debilitated stone buildings and a scattering of metal equipment pieces I assume from the mining operations in the 1800s. I was rather disappointed. But the scenery was spectacular deep down in the canyon surrounded by rock formations.

Camping anywhere in this park is free. I initially found a spot at the bottom of the canyon not far from the river, but there was no cell service or internet. I moved to a higher elevation that wasn't as pretty, but internet friendly. The dry, hot, desert dust blowing violently around the van all night caused me to awaken multiple times in the van unable to breathe! This desert dust is destroying my sinuses!

Grand Canyon National Park

I arrived at the South Rim Entrance around 1pm and there were three lines of cars maybe 20 cars deep. I hate to say it but not even a week into my Great Adventure and the tourists are already driving me nuts, even though I am also a tourist! I turned around and decided to find a free campsite and relax the afternoon away. Well, a little - I did a bucket of laundry. I found a glorious campsite near the park's entrance in the Kaibab Forest. Very quiet and beautiful except for the idiots racing down the dirt road with no consideration for the dust they were creating. Thankfully my campsite was a bit off the road. Love the tall trees and pine needle ground!

The next day I got up at the crack of dawn and got to the park at 7am. No one in line! I walked the Rim Trail back and forth amazed by the scenery, but suffering from vertigo every time I got close to the edge. No railings! Scary!

All peace, quiet, and contemplation was destroyed around 8:30am when hoards of tourist buses arrived! There was one teenage school group with about 200 screaming kids. I left happy to have seen the sites without chaos of tourists.

The Vortex

I continued to meander north through the sites in Arizona. I stopped at Montezuma's Castle only because every intersection had a sign and after the second one I figured it was calling me. Not really, but maybe I shouldn't miss it. Lovely cliff dwellings, concrete path, too many tourists and not enough parking. I wasn't sure if I was disappointed or relieved I wouldn't have to hike straight up to see them - they were inaccessible with viewings only from the lower, well-manicured park.

Sedona. I visited the tiny village of Sedona about twenty-five years ago. It sure has changed! However, it's so well-maintained with beautiful roads, flowers all over, gorgeous buildings most of them matching each other, and, of course, spectacular views of the red rock mountains surrounding the valley. Is there any poverty here? I don't think so. I saw one house that was big enough for a small town to live in! Whole Foods, natural health stores, and unfortunately, gluten-free bakeries. 

The first day I went on the Little Horse hike and followed the Llama-Blue Rock Loop. Again, doing more than I planned, convinced I was lost, encountering friendly mountain bike riders, and outstanding scenery. 

I camped at the Beaverhead Flats area south of Sedona. The road in had very deep ruts from past mud conditions, but it was cool and quiet.

The next day I headed to Uptown Sedona to see the town. The best time to avoid smelly tourists would be at 7:30am! Most shops and restaurants don't open until 10:30a-11:00am, but I'm not interested in buying or eating. I loved the peace and quiet. 

Again, trying to make my way back to Free Parking Lot Number 6, I once again got lost making my walk five times longer than anticipated up into the residential hills! Not much is more satisfying that spying Big Blue from afar when one's feet are hurting!

Earth Day Take Off!

After months of "Trapped in Tucson", I have finally left, slowly meandering my way to Alaska! OMG! First, I had to develop personal guidelines:

1.) STOP WORRYING!!! I have a genetic mutation that causes me to worry. Finding this out was very validating after years of questioning Am I just a weirdo? It also made me realize I worry incessantly and unnecessarily more than most people so STOP! Immediately I started worrying about mechanical breakdowns, then I started hearing imaginary noises from the engine. Maybe, but how many times have I taken a vehicle into the shop because of "some noise" and the mechanic after hours confesses, "I'm sorry, I can't hear this noise and if I can't hear it I can't determine what is causing it." UGH! Then I started worrying about tarantulas, snakes, weather, supplies...JUST STOP!

2.) DRIVE SAFELY. Do not use my phone when driving. Do not eat while driving. Do not try to read a map while driving. Do not write notes while driving. Don't take photos while driving. No changing CDs while driving. No reading maps while driving. This is actually really hard as I am a multitasker, but if I don't start being present, it's not going to end up well.

3.) PRETEND YOU ARE ON VACATION. Enjoy myself. Take it easy. Sleep in. Stop to see sights on the spur of the moment. Relax. And most important: HAVE FUN! This is a once in a lifetime experience. Well, until I do it again next year! HAVE FUN!!!!

So from Tucson, Arizona, I headed north on Hwy 77, then 79, then detoured to 60 where I found the road closed (!), on to the alternate route 177 to Globe, then 188, and 87 where I found the Barnhard Disperse Campground just sound of Rye where I did some cow camping!

Yee Ha! Get along little doggie!

Love these cacti! This was a morning view so the blossoms weren't as fully opened and spectacular as they were the night before.

Before arriving at my campsite for the night, I took in some sights:

Teddy Roosevelt Lake - beautiful! I'd love to live here!

The Tonto National Monument was on the way so I impetuously visited and hiked to the cliff dwellings. The path was only a half a mile but straight up and in the afternoon sun a bit challenging. BUT it was all paved! Normally at these sites one would find make-shift stone steps which are hard on old knees.

See Big Blue resting in the parking lot. She has it easy!!

Continued Arizona Meanderings

Next stop was Bisbee. I visited Bisbee in December on my way to New Mexico, but it was early in the morning and nothing was opened. This time I didn't realize most shops are closed on Tuesdays and guess what day it was? But what was open was wonderful. The great thing about this old town is they've kept it maintained, the shops are filled with art galleries, bakeries, clothing stores, new age things, second hand and antique shops. I found the absolute best clothing store I've ever been in filled with beautiful fabrics and patterns called PanTerra. Of course, I don't need beautiful clothes living in a van. I wouldn't even know how to take care of them! But I kept their business card and perhaps if my life resumes someday, I'll be back! I wandered through the streets, up the stairs (whew!) and down art alleys. I loved the creativity in all the nooks and crannies...I would have never thought to use an old car door for a gate! I walked by a corner and saw an old school desk just sitting there for interest. Love it.

I was told by a local, rentals are impossible to find because home owners have turned all their homes into AirBNBs to accommodate the tourist industry. Too bad. I'd love to live here.

For lack of free campsites in the Bisbee area (I have heard many places will allow you to overnight in their parking lots but this felt uncomfortable), I headed to Sierra Vista where I stayed at the BLM land just south of town. It was dry and dusty destroying my sinuses especially when the four-wheel drive vehicles would race by, but otherwise very quiet and safe feeling. Lots of hikers walking by heading to and from the trails at the end of the road.

I meandered north to Katchner Caverns, but it cost $10 to get into the park and another $30 to see caves. I just didn't think it was worth it. So I continued north to Safford. Nothing special about Safford except an overabundance of hot springs, but they've made it big business. $15 per hour for a hot springs soak. I knew I wouldn't last more than 5 minutes especially in 95 degree weather so I passed. I was told there were free hot springs an hour away north in Clifton so off I went!

Clifton was adorable with train tracks and a river running through it, tall rock walls on the side of the highway. Not much in the way of stores and amenities, but it had the most amazing "historical downtown":

Unfortunately few of the shops were in business. Most buildings looked derelict and on the verge of being condemned, but cool looking! Loved the narrow main street and high sidewalks. What Clinton did not have was a free hot springs. Or any hot springs. It was out of commission, and by the looks I was getting from the locals, it had been out of commission for a long time!

Next I traveled to Ajo, a delightful, but cloudy little town with a Mexican-style town square complete with gorgeous white adobe churches on each corner. They have a strong art community with an "Art Alley" of murals.

I stayed at the BLM campground south of Ajo and woke to this:

About 30 miles to the south of Ajo is Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. I spent the morning hiking the incredibly peaceful desert landscape. Near the end of the hike I was getting so hot in 90 degree weather I doused myself with water. I ended up staying at the campground so I could use their showers. Admission fee to the park was free with my American the Beautiful National Park Pass, and I received a 50% off the campsite which came to $10. I camped...and took three showers in a 12 hour period!

More Arizona Meanderings: Chiriahua National Monument

The weather in northern Arizona was freezing and unpredictable with snow, hail, rain and windstorms. I headed south and ended up at the Chiriahua National Monument. Entrance is FREE! There is no free camping and inside the park is Bonita Canyon Campground, but it was expensive and full. A van-dwelling friend advised to camp right outside the gate on a triangular patch of dirt where the three roads meet. It felt vulnerable to be parked out in the open at an intersection, but I asked the park's visitor's center and they said, "Yep, there are usually 3-4 RVs or vans there every morning when they come in for work. Perfectly legal." I was the only one, but there was a white van parked right next to the entrance sign all night. Cell service is scattered, but the visitor's center has wi-fi.

The landscape was beautiful with majestic scenery, breathtaking views, and all kinds of bizarre rock formations. The first day I hiked the top at Massai Point Nature Trail and then the Nature Bridge the second day in the morning. Beautiful hikes, but that second day was an exhausting 4.8 mile that felt like 15 miles through a canyon, up a mountain, along a ridge, down the mountain, along another canyon and back! I was hoping to walk a nature bridge or at least walk under one, but it was inaccessible located up on the mountain's wall. The whole time I was worried about woke rattlesnakes, rabid coatis, and mama bears, but I only saw birds and chipmunks. I did see two coatis the day before on a hillside. Perfect weather, cool and sunny. 

California or Bust!

This was what I expected from California...

With the temperatures in Tucson climbing into the high 90s, it was time to leave! Solar is done, refrigerator in place, sound-deadening insulation attached, I am outta here! Time for some adventures! I longed for a beach walk and maybe even a swim! My friends invited me to visit and I planned for a two-three day stop. Initially I had planned to go to Mexico from there, but people talked me out of it saying do not go alone. OK. California here I come!

First stop on the westward expedition was Yuma, Arizona. For some reason I always pictured Yuma a small town. Maybe I've seen too many Wild West movies? It's a sprawling city with most of the neighborhoods looking like giant RV parks! I stayed at the BLM land on American Girl Mine Road northwest of the city. I thought I missed the exit off Highway 8, but it's just past Felicity. It was a desert, desolate in it's emptiness, quiet, and unpopulated with just a few RVs miles away.

Next stop was Holtville...they have a hot springs! It's free to anyone. Out in the desert. Oh, how I have longed to be immersed in water. I haven't had a bath of any kind for four months and this is really harsh after a lifetime of daily bathing. Yes, I have had showers, few and far between, but it's not the same thing! The exit off Highway 8 was the Van der Linden exit east of the town. 

My first dip upon arrival there was only one other person. The second immersion was later in the day and there were about ten visitors. I didn't feel comfortable taking photos of strangers so I don't have photos of the actual pools. The hot springs looks like two cement little kiddie pools with a shower overhead. The shower was HOT. Oh, hell, the pools were HOTTER! Most importantly, no one was naked...thank god. Call me prude but after a lifetime of sexual harassment I'm not hot springing with naked people. I was a little concerned about the cleanliness of the water, but I threw all caution to the wind, or rather into the water! I came out of that pool red like a lobster. It was wonderful. The strange thing about this hot springs is it's right next to the freeway. Literally. Look up and you can see semi-trucks whizzing by!

I was told the free BLM land was the first left turn as you leave, under the freeway, but then I encountered a LTVA (long term visitor area) sign stating the cost is $180 for six months. As I was reading the sign, a woman driving by (later I found out her name is Moonlight) stopped and asked if I was looking to stay the night. She said the sign is just for the first part. Drive to the back beyond the power lines and there is plenty of free camping. I did not want to park too close to power lines due to EMFs. The area was nearly empty and very quiet with tall bushes and trees for privacy. But it was still desert. Don't venture off the road too far or the sand can get deep. I was almost stuck unable to back up. Did I say this is an adventure??

The Starbucks in El Centro off the 4th Avenue exit was spectacular. Lovely employees. 

El Centro Starbucks at four in the morning...quiet and empty.

However, they were out of superpower water so I was forced into buying a Olipop Root Beer as an entrance fee. Later I bought some Haagen Daz Vanilla Ice Cream and had my first root beer float in twenty-five years. Traveling, living in a van, and out of body experiences make my willpower weak. Very weak. Oddly enough, I didn't have much of a reaction and that makes me want to indulge more. I can feel the weight gain already!

Onto San Diego, but took a detour off Hwy 8 north on Hwy 79 through the most gorgeous countryside filled with parks. I ended up in Julian, beautiful little town that I've heard specializes in homemade pies. Thankfully it was too early for any shop to be open. I continued driving the gorgeous landscapes filled with copious amounts of greenery and charming hobby farms to Ramona, Powy, and south to San Diego then Chula Vista where I was visiting friends. 

California...hmmm. Surprisingly, southern California is COLD! In the 60s with a thick dark gray cloud cover the whole time I was there. I can officially say I have climatized to the heat of Arizona! My solars also did not like the cold and clouds either. For the most part the freeways were nice, not crowded like Phoenix or Tucson. The first store I visited the grocery checker asked if I wanted a bag. I asked if they cost and she replied, "Honey, you are in California." No more free bags! Gas was at least $1.25 more per gallon (Tucson was about $3.09 when I left) and at one stop I paid $5.99 per gallon for plain ole unleaded! And, last but not least, San Diego Starbucks was a challenge. Most of them were drive through with no interior seating, but the bottled water was twenty cents cheaper!

By the second day I was definitely missing the warmth of Arizona! I went to Imperial Beach which was my goal for this trip. I just wanted to walk in sand, wade in ocean salt water, and maybe even swim. First, the whole town smelled of mold and mildew! Damp and wet. Second, it was FREEZING! I stood on the sand thinking this was way too cold for barefeet and against all common sense my head screamed, I don't care! Take off your shoes and walk in sand! So I did. Being "land locked" for months has taken it's toll. I'm surprised I didn't drink some root beer float at the same time! It was glorious, but my feet were numb in the first five seconds. There is no way I'd put my body in that freezing ocean water no matter how therapeutic I thought it would be! I met some young men later at my second visit to the hot springs who did go swimming anyway and lasted about ten minutes!

Look at the clouds...this can't be southern California!

I love visiting my friends, but they were staying in a house that belonged to her parents with 1970s shag carpeting, old crocheted blankets on all the old furniture, and copious amounts of dusty collections of all kinds. They weren't one to use air fresheners, but they did use Dawn Dishwashing Liquid and scented soaps. I was so thankful I had a safe place to sleep for the night. The city air wasn't a problem like I have experienced with Seattle or Phoenix probably due to its proximity to the ocean.

After two nights I thanked my hosts for their hospitality and hightailed it back to warmth. As soon as I got out of San Diego County, the sun started breaking through the clouds. By the time I reached the east side of the mountain range, it was total sun. I was so happy!! I headed straight for the Holtville Hot Springs to regain some body heat!

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