Next stop was Bisbee. I visited Bisbee in December on my way to New Mexico, but it was early in the morning and nothing was opened. This time I didn't realize most shops are closed on Tuesdays and guess what day it was? But what was open was wonderful. The great thing about this old town is they've kept it maintained, the shops are filled with art galleries, bakeries, clothing stores, new age things, second hand and antique shops. I found the absolute best clothing store I've ever been in filled with beautiful fabrics and patterns called PanTerra. Of course, I don't need beautiful clothes living in a van. I wouldn't even know how to take care of them! But I kept their business card and perhaps if my life resumes someday, I'll be back! I wandered through the streets, up the stairs (whew!) and down art alleys. I loved the creativity in all the nooks and crannies...I would have never thought to use an old car door for a gate! I walked by a corner and saw an old school desk just sitting there for interest. Love it.
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I was told by a local, rentals are impossible to find because home owners have turned all their homes into AirBNBs to accommodate the tourist industry. Too bad. I'd love to live here.
For lack of free campsites in the Bisbee area (I have heard many places will allow you to overnight in their parking lots but this felt uncomfortable), I headed to Sierra Vista where I stayed at the BLM land just south of town. It was dry and dusty destroying my sinuses especially when the four-wheel drive vehicles would race by, but otherwise very quiet and safe feeling. Lots of hikers walking by heading to and from the trails at the end of the road.
I meandered north to Katchner Caverns, but it cost $10 to get into the park and another $30 to see caves. I just didn't think it was worth it. So I continued north to Safford. Nothing special about Safford except an overabundance of hot springs, but they've made it big business. $15 per hour for a hot springs soak. I knew I wouldn't last more than 5 minutes especially in 95 degree weather so I passed. I was told there were free hot springs an hour away north in Clifton so off I went!
Clifton was adorable with train tracks and a river running through it, tall rock walls on the side of the highway. Not much in the way of stores and amenities, but it had the most amazing "historical downtown":
Unfortunately few of the shops were in business. Most buildings looked derelict and on the verge of being condemned, but cool looking! Loved the narrow main street and high sidewalks. What Clinton did not have was a free hot springs. Or any hot springs. It was out of commission, and by the looks I was getting from the locals, it had been out of commission for a long time!
Next I traveled to Ajo, a delightful, but cloudy little town with a Mexican-style town square complete with gorgeous white adobe churches on each corner. They have a strong art community with an "Art Alley" of murals.
I stayed at the BLM campground south of Ajo and woke to this:
About 30 miles to the south of Ajo is Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. I spent the morning hiking the incredibly peaceful desert landscape. Near the end of the hike I was getting so hot in 90 degree weather I doused myself with water. I ended up staying at the campground so I could use their showers. Admission fee to the park was free with my American the Beautiful National Park Pass, and I received a 50% off the campsite which came to $10. I camped...and took three showers in a 12 hour period!
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